Best of Manhattan 2002: Eats & Drinks
BEST SORT-OF-NEW RESTAURANT IN BROOKLYN HEIGHTS

What's in a Name? After its recent brief closing for a refurbish, renaming and a new menu, Isobel has been this year's Brooklyn Heights destination for discerning foodies, packed on weekend nights despite its capacious space (no elbow-room problems here). It's certainly the new class act among Brooklyn Heights' often dowdy, tried-and-true-but-boring-as-hell yuppie/retiree eateries. The large rooms are candlelight-dusky yet airy, quite romantic, the decor casually fashionable (picture a nice but not piss-elegant restaurant in Madrid or an upscale trattoria in Milan), with as many couples hanging out at the bar and lounge area as at the tables and banquettes. The service was still getting its sea legs the last couple of times we were there this summer, but the desire to please more than made up for a bit of fumbling.

Call the cuisine internationalist chic. Among the appetizers, we're very fond of the ceviche presentation, with the small bits of fish drenched in four sauces, ranging from tart to spicy (not Isobel's invention, but deftly done). Entrees range from an all-American "double porkchop" with lentils and butternut squash ($18) to a juicily Italianate pan-seared monkfish over sweet-but-not-too beet risotto ($20). We have yet to try the Thursday-only special, "authentic bouillabaisse Marseillaise" ($35 per person, two person minimum), but our mouth's watering at the thought. We have tried the filet mignon ($24), and it was seared to perfection, with a moist and pinkish heart inside a crunchy, pan-blackened crust. Nice wine list, thoughtfully selected desserts. Isobel also offers brunch on weekends.

Isobel is a tad pricey by Brooklyn Heighters' plodding standards -- we recently overheard one local grayhead grumbling, "Nine dollars for a tart?" -- but Manhattanites who take the A train to High St. and stroll the short block there won't even notice, and will toddle back to the train well satisfied.