Excerpts from...
TWO TIMER
Tintos owner scraps the tapas for French-Mediterranean menu in Henry St.'s new Isobel
By Tina Barry
for the Brooklyn Papers

....I have not stopped raving about Raggiri's striped bass. The fish is first pan seared, then briefly toasted in the oven. The result is a velvety, moist, big-flavored piece of fish with a satisfying, crunch crust. The fillet is served over well-cooked - not nearly raw as they're often served - baby carrots, tiny zucchini and a few peas for color. Small morel mushrooms are sauteed and scattered over the fish imparting a woodsy, smoky note to the dish. Raggiri's sauce, slightly tart and creamy, is a simple reduction of shallots, mushroom stock, and just a touch of creme fraiche. It is an utterly beguiling dish.

... Hire charming waitresses who know every ingredient in every dish and can recommend wines from the large international selection of reasonably priced bottles; offer a setting that encourages diners to linger and serve dishes as heart thumpingly delicious as that striped bass. That is the formula that makes dining at Isobel so lovely - the very first time around.